Wet, Wales, and Sheepishness

Last week my friend Joel and I (of Wahanowin fame) headed off on what was to be a four day canoeing trip down the river Teifi in Wales.

Of the parts of this island I have seen, Wales ranks as my favourite so far. Winding our way through the vivid green hills on a narrow track (it was loosely called a road, but wouldn't pass for one in my dictionary) past countless sheep and farms, I felt strangely at home. Phil, our Welsh shuttle driver, wasn't much help when it came to deciphering street signs, however. Even the Welsh can't pronounce the names of some of these towns.

The river was running fast and high when we put in, thanks to a recent rainfall, so we made good time to our first campsite. The river meandered through a quiet valley, though the high water often meant trees overhanging the water. I ran Joel into several before I realized that gawking would have to wait until I was in the bow.

We saw very few people our first day. Our one episode of note was a narrowly avoided collision with a barbed wire fence placed across the river by a malicious landowner.

You see, there aren't a lot of paddlers in the UK for many reasons, but the largest is access disputes. Landowners don't like paddlers because they consider the rivers "theirs." Fishermen don't like paddlers because they believe the boats disturb the fish. Yep. I've been called many things before, but "fish" disturber is a new one!

Anyway, we stealthily made camp and settled into supper. In classic Welsh style, the skies opened, the rain fell, and we retired to play cards in the tent.

The next day proved to be the best, weather wise. Paddling wise, as well. We went through several lovely little rapids and (unexpectedly) over a short waterfall, which gave Joel quite a thrill. He had both hands over his head, one holding his camera, the other his paddle. Wasn't much help on that one. I had my first encounter with an ornery landowner just after this, as he came down to the water and said, "Leave now. You're disturbing the fish." No please, no nothing. He also had a camera.

Making good time, we headed downstream and passed our planned campsite, opting instead to hit the Llandysul paddling centre by evening and camp there among allies. We met quite a few fisherman after that, but only one was mean. The rest were quite friendly.

We set a fine camp up in a field and spent the evening chatting with local paddlers. I wasn't feeling well, so we decided to plan the next day's activities accordingly in the morning.

Fate, as it happened, was a little parched that night, and decided Wales needed a good soaking. Seventy five millimetres of rain (a month's worth) in one day, as it happens. Sopping wet us and sopping wet equipment plus illness and high water spelled an end to that little adventure. We bailed out and went back to Bognor Regis to dry out and recover.

We did manage two short day paddles around the south-the river Arun and Chichester Harbour-before heading back to the big city. Brian came out for the weekend and was happy to see his first seals playing in the harbour. They stalked our boats halfway back to the launch.

Today I'm off for a short weekend jaunt down to Cornwall. We're hoping to see some really cool castles and ruins (possibly Stonehenge) as well as the Eden Project. Since most of you in Canada won't know what that is, I'll explain. It's a BioDome! Now, if you know me at all, you'll know why that has me all excited. I'll tell you all about it next week!